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Brussels – Within the European Union, the textile sector ranks third in terms of water and land use, and fifth in terms of raw material consumption and greenhouse gas emissions. In 2020, the average consumption of textile products per European citizen required 9 cubic metres of water, 400 square metres of land, and 391 kilograms of raw materials. In addition, every year in the EU, 5 million tonnes of textiles and clothing are discarded – around 12 tonnes per person – and only 1 per cent of these are recycled into new products. European citizens, however, are struggling to change their habits. The warning comes from a study by Legambiente for the VERDEinMED project, established to promote the prevention and reduction of textile waste in the Mediterranean region.
The survey involved hundreds of participants in Italy, Spain, and Greece and highlighted a significant discrepancy between consumers’ environmental values and their actual purchasing behaviour in the textile sector. In fact, 69 per cent of consumers surveyed said they read labels, a figure that decreases with age, but 34.6 per cent believe the information provided is incomplete and lacks transparency. “People are therefore asking for clear information on the origin of raw materials, production processes and working conditions,” said Legambiente. Furthermore, most people say they are strongly in favour of buying sustainable fibres and are willing to change their habits to protect the environment. At the same time, however, 42.4 per cent of respondents said they pay little or no attention when buying textile products. This is what Legambiente defines as a “value-action gap,” a discrepancy between values and actions. Although awareness is growing, the study explains, “the lack of transparency and pressures from the fashion system remain the main obstacles to sustainable consumption.”
The survey also reveals that 25.4 per cent of participants do not know where their clothes come from, despite the fact that garments travel a long way before reaching European shops. Eurostat data from 2024, compiled by the CBI (Centre for the Promotion of Imports), indicates that the EU imported clothing worth €180.5 billion. China, Bangladesh, and Turkey are the top three exporters to the EU. Together, they account for 27.8 per cent of all clothing imports into the EU in 2024. China alone accounts for 12.8 per cent of the value of imports, amounting to €23 billion.
According to the European Environment Agency, textile purchases in the EU in 2020 generated approximately 270 kilograms of CO2 emissions per person. This means that textiles consumed in the EU generated greenhouse gas emissions amounting to 121 million tonnes. Furthermore, many clothes are thrown away. According to Eurostat data, European citizens consume almost 26 kilograms of textiles each year and dispose of around 11. Used clothing may be exported outside the EU, but for the most part, it is incinerated or sent to landfills. Another key finding of the Legambiente study is waste management: 41.1 per cent of participants do not know how it works in their region or city.
It is not a question of indifference, Legambiente points out. The influence of the fast fashion model “encourages excessive consumption and obscures the environmental costs of production.” The impact of the textile and fashion industries “is a global challenge, which requires effective legislation based on eco-design and prevention, but is also a local challenge in which businesses and consumers play key roles,” said Giorgio Zampetti, general manager of Legambiente.
To address the lack of information, Legambiente is focusing on the Digital Product Passport (DPP), established in the European Ecodesign Regulation. This tool should serve to represent the garment’s true digital identity, standardising data on traceability, transparency, regarding environmental impact, regulatory compliance, and end-of-life management, combating greenwashing, and, finally, raising consumer awareness. Furthermore, the environmental association adds, “we need a key regulatory tool such as Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR), which obliges those who manufacture, import, and sell textile products to take responsibility for the entire product lifecycle, including waste management costs.” Governance of the sector is “fragmented and lacks a single point of control,” concludes Zampetti. “Without the involvement of citizens and an overarching vision, there will always be a missing link to close the loop and make the supply chain sustainable.”
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